Soap making checklist

You cannot view this unit as you\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'re not logged in yet.

14 thoughts on “Soap making checklist”

    • Hi Luiz,

      When making a soap formula, water is calculated as a percentage of the total quantity of oils used, not as a percentage of the total formula. This is how the soap calculators work, and following this concept will help you later if you want to create your own formulas.

      As for this formula 600 grams of oil * 38% = 228 grams of water, which means the water quantity is 38% of the total oil quantity.

  1. Apron to use: of what material is it
    Goggles: are these the welding ones?
    Gloves: can I use the rubber household cleaning ones
    Long sleeved top: Of what material should this be made from

    • Any apron will do. But if you have a plastic one so the liquid doesn’t seep through it it’s better. I’ve replied already to your question regarding the goggles and the information is included also in the course in the unit “what equipment do I need to make soap”. In the same unit I have given details about the gloves. Any material long sleeved top will do.

  2. 1.I have not bought the equipment yet, can I rad through up to the end of all the lessons, then try the exercises when I have bought the equipment

    • Hi Angelika,

      It is a very good idea to try to write your own to compare with the check-list, so you can see if you are comfortable with the order of the steps. They are always the same, and of course, the more soap you make, the more you will feel comfortable. You can also download the list as pdf.

  3. Q. #1- I am curious about keeping the soap in the Moulds for an entire week. Many soap makers leaving it in the mold for just 24-48 hrs. Is this long of cure time due to the type of fats used in this particular recipe?

    Q. #2- when you say we can insulate if we want it to gel. Can you explain what the effects are if we choose to insulate the soap loaf and the effects if we choose not to? I see many soap makers bundling the loaves in blankets, and using lids on the top of the moulds, then adding heating pads. Is this method something you don’t subscribe to, and if not why.

    Thank you

    • Q#1 – Is recommended for the soap to be left in the mould for 1 week to ensure the saponification reaction is completed (it can take up to 3 days) and the soap is fully solidified. You can try to take the soap out of the mould after 24-48 hours, but please don’t forget to use gloves to protect your hands in case the saponification process is not completely finished. The recommendation is not related to the type of fats used for this soap. The curing period of the soap is at least 4 weeks, ideally 6 weeks.

      Q#2 – I am discussing the gelling process in Module 19 – Gelling your soap. You will find answers to the questions there, but if there’s anything else you’d like to know, I’ll be happy to answer.

  4. Thank you for the explanations very helpful. I did make my first batch of cold process soap using the recipe.I did add turmeric for color (2 tsp) and patchouli oil for fragrance. I am allergic to linalool which is almost everything, so I am limited on fragrance choices. I did choose to insulated to get it to gel and went back in and made some texture with a spoon. It held its form and is a nice color with nice texture as well. I will send pics when I have taken the soap out of the mold. Thanks again, I am really enjoying the class.


Leave a Comment